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Diffussed oxygen

Discussion in 'Advance Water Quality' started by WaterToad, Mar 9, 2015.

  1. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    Mar 2, 2015
    Location:
    CA
    Anyone ever try this ?

    Same idea as running co2. Maybe even same set up and just run oxygen instead.

    I have been told it's not a good idea.Due to some sort of Hyperbaric situation or or something of that nature ? Essentially killing the fish by destroying there blood cells.

    The food fish farms are running there Tilapia and Halibut at 80% to 120%. With stated increased growth ?

    Would need to spend the money and get a decent meter so you know what % your at.... and would be nightmare keeping a track of it but ? lol

    Yes/ NO/ Maybe
     
  2. bluebelly

    bluebelly Ambassador

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    Dec 29, 2008
    Location:
    chesterland,ohio,usa
    why

    what you are growing your goldfish for, to view or eat? if it is to maximum size in short order, like food fish, go ahead. if the fish are to be a certain standard then why force the growth, some times grotesque growth?
    There is a commercial farm using these techniques and the fish never spawn and do not live long, they have a quick turnover for $ only.
     
    Smartie2000 likes this.
  3. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    Just a general inquiry. There is lots of talk about grooming fish in ponds with phytoplankton ( green water ),with the increased metabolism and gut loading on food and getting great results ?

    They are also in general considered to have indeterminate growth. So at some point wouldn't they push past what might be considered a premium structure for showing anyway? Or maybe some fish have it and some don't from day one. And most are just plucked out for shows at that one sweet spot and stage of growth ? Then tossed back in the pond.

    Just curious and it does seem to be a taboo subject. And yes pushing fish on pure oxygen making them main line it straight from the tap might not be a great idea.

    But removing any oxygen restrictions that might be placed on your fish maybe not a bad idea if your willing to deal with the extra work ? Leaving them to grow at the rate they want. Based on food and metabolism.

    And yes my fish are my pets. No salt and butter for these guys.

    On another note feeding our fish 35 to 50 % protein daily diets is also causing a ( burn bright but burn out fast life). In no way would a fish in the wild even remotely come close to a diet like this. Unless they lived in a river next to a dog food factory with sloppy dock workers.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2015
  4. Ichthius

    Ichthius Professional Breeder

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    Dec 11, 2008
    Location:
    Eugene Oregon
    A simple are stone will keep you water at near saturation. You only need pure oxygen when pushing the carrying capacity of a system in high density culture.

    During the growing season goldfish feed very heavily on live insects which are very high in protein and fat. 35 to 50% protein in food is not that high and if wet live food was dehydrated to prepared food weight they have about 50% protein.
     
  5. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    Yea that sounds spot on. But This topic has been kicked under the rug so many times I'm at a need to know. I have a LaMotte 0-10 ppm test kit on it's way. Even for just to pull my air stones out for a cleaner look. I should have some reading this week. I will post temp and ppm.
     
  6. Ununique

    Ununique Well-Known Member

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    Jan 12, 2015
    Location:
    Lancaster, Pa
    I've heard of it done for filtration purposes, for example dosing the oxygen before the biological media.
    Ultimately this would just improve the bacteria action thereby allowing for higher fish load in the same system.
    Also of course its an oxidizer.

    You'd probably see better growth results with better genetics. In just a single spawning you can see growth ranges differ by 50% or more.

    At any rate, by all means try it. The two things that seem most important in this case would be how does the fish adjust to regular water when it leaves this sort of system, and the long terms effects.
    Both of those would require some lengthy testing and examination of the fish.
     
  7. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    Yea i was thinking the same thing with the overflow box if i went in that direction. Just need to get some base readings and see whats really going on first. Hoping to get my test kit tomorrow.
     
  8. Ichthius

    Ichthius Professional Breeder

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    Dec 11, 2008
    Location:
    Eugene Oregon
    I would say oxygen is one of the least tested parameters. It's so easy to provide adequate levels and your fish will tell you quickly when they are not.

    Surface skimming and falling water add so much oxygen to the water you'd only need supplement heavily stocked tanks.
     
  9. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    CA
    Those are the standards i have lived by. As it sits now i have four sources of oxygen

    1. the overflow waterfall

    2. the drip plate over wet dry

    3 large hobby hydro air pump with 2 large air stones

    4 the entire surface of the water has nice steady agitation

    I'm going to pull the test in what would be considered the dead spot in tank. Middle center before it returns to overflow.
     
  10. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    Location:
    CA
    Ok got it figured out (i think).

    1 To much oxygen can result in oxygen toxicity from prolonged exposure to above normal oxygen partial pressures. Not an issue.

    2 Water saturation is no more than a converted ppm/mg/L number. And these farms reporting best results in health and growth at 80% to 120% are on the money and that is the sweet spot. It's something like 7 to 9 ppm converted.

    3 To get your water saturation number you first must be able to get your ppm/mg/L and multiply it by an altitude/atmospheric pressure calculator to get your adjusted ppm. (phew). You then draw a line on a conversion chart to get your water saturation number.

    Green water is the free way of bringing a pond into the sweet spot of around 110/115% saturation.

    With this method you should be able to find real world oxygen levels of any tank or pond.

    Just seems something we should all have in our goldfish tool boxes. There are a bunch of conversion charts out but i found one that looks super simple and i can to link it or something if needed.

    Under 60% and above 125% saturation is considered to be leaving the good zone on both ends of the spectrum.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  11. High Ranchu

    High Ranchu Professional Breeder

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    Sarasota, Florida
    All we need to know about oxygen is that with water temperature rising, dissolved oxygen level decreases.
    Approximately from 34 F (1°C) - 13.77 ml/L to 77 F (25°C) - 8.11 ml/L at low altitudes.

    BTW with green water you can oversaturate and cause bubble decease (oxygen intoxication) in fish. Green water requires a lot of attention payed.
    As Ichtius mentioned, watch your fish and they will "talk"
     
  12. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    Location:
    CA
    Indeed and you can also crash your oxygen if don't monitor your green water. I agree to some extent there is no reason for having green water if you have no idea what it's doing. Just doing it because people say it is good is ok. But knowing why it's good is better.

    Just passing on some information i believe to be correct. If i'm wrong by all means call me out on it. Last thing i want to do is chase my tail.

    Playing around with it may not be for everyone. Happy fish keeping.

    Gas bubble disease is very real and something people should take serious. Pro's and con's for everything
     
  13. High Ranchu

    High Ranchu Professional Breeder

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    :) have fun!
     
  14. Ichthius

    Ichthius Professional Breeder

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    Eugene Oregon
    And remember oxygen super saturation is not nearly as bad as nitrogen (air) super saturation caused by Heath g cold water under pressure or by suction side pump leaks.

    Either way an airstone will help protect the fish.
     
  15. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    http://ciese.org/curriculum/waterproj/saturation/


    The saturation chart. Gives you everything you need except you (ppm) or (mg/L).

    This one seemed super simple to use. Connect the dots temp vs ppm= %

    And yea good call on the nitrogen. I can run ozone with my UV. I'm not using pure oxygen and would just like to get to about 90% saturation.

    Ok have fun...knock yourself out... that's all folks
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2015
  16. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    The results are in.

    74 degree water with 6.8 ppm.

    Gives me a saturation of 75/76%. So oxygen is at a healthy level and now i know.

    It's predicted to get really hot. If my water goes up a decent amount i'll take another.

    The saturation chart i put up here is the exact same that comes in the test kit.
     
  17. Ichthius

    Ichthius Professional Breeder

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    Ps my reply was in response to Zando/Glenn? Who seemingly was removed by the troll filter. Thanks to our crack team of troll hunters.

    Greater than 8ppm does not harm fish though higher is usually not necessary.

    Percent is not the appropriate term we should be talking in parts per million or ppm

    Remember saturation in water is like relative humidity, temperature and altitude effects the out come.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2015
  18. WaterToad

    WaterToad Active Member

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    Yep all good. I'm starting to see why these high load farms use % instead of ppm. It would seem helpful for stocking. Over time be able to figure out 02 consumption per pound and maybe even down to a single fish ( in the neighborhood at least).
     

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